by Rebecca Catterall
Photo by John Clemens / The Lower Topanga Photo Archive
Photo by John Clemens / The Lower Topanga Photo Archive
Ever wonder about the local folklore concerning cabins on
Topanga Beach that were demolished in 1978? Or stories before the bulldozing of
The Rodeo Grounds and Snake Pit neighborhoods in 2006? And how did they get
those names anyway? Your curiosity will be satisfied at the Topanga Historical
Society Quarterly meeting, Wednesday evening, July 19 at the Topanga Community
Center (TCC). The potluck begins at 7 p.m. before the 8 p.m. program.
Our story begins around 9,000 years ago when Topanga Beach
was inhabited by Chumash and Tongva tribes. The area was called Humaliwo
(Malibu), “where the waves sound loud.” A friendly line in the sand was drawn
dividing these two tribes for living, but commerce and creating unique canoes
(tomols) kept them neighborly.
Fast forward to the Mission Movement and Ranchos when
long-horn cattle studded the landscape. Again the land was divided between Boca
de Santa Monica Rancho and Malibu Rancho, coincidently on the same line that
divided the first peoples’ tribes.
Recreating that time, silent film actor Tom Mix filmed
Westerns on Topanga Beach and in the Canyon. Also hanging around was William
Randolph Hearst who purchased the land when building a palatial Santa Monica
beach house for Marian Davies in the 1920’s. He also built small houses on
Topanga Beach for the use of his movie-star friends; the likes of Garbo and
Keaton lived there, and later on Shirley Temple and others.
But the biggest housing explosion was after 1929 when the
Rindge family, owner of the Malibu Rancho at that time, lost control of the
property and Roosevelt Highway (PCH) was built. The workers lived in Topanga
Beach Tent City. The community was later known as Elkhorn, complete with a café
and dance hall.
The Depression hit Hearst hard and in 1938 he sold the land
to the Los Angeles Athletic Club. At that point it was still a Hollywood escape
and rumors have it that Marilyn Monroe, Errol Flynn, Peter Lawford and others
stayed in the now defunct motel.
Continue to fast forward to the 1960’s and the bohemian
world invades Los Angeles, settling in Topanga. Different groups gravitate to
three distinct locations: the beach, The Rodeo Grounds, and The Snake Pit.
There are hardcore bikers called The Heathens; a group called The Pirates who
lived up to their names as robbers; and surfers, known as The Bombers, who were
not always willing to share the waves with outsiders. And, of course, the poets, artists, and
musicians such as Mama Cass, Bear from Canned Heat, and Buddy Miles from Jimi
Hendrix’s band. Perhaps the most notorious, living in a black bus in The Snake
Pit with his “family,” was Charles Manson.
Life on the beach was life on the edge for many. But for
some there was added value in the bohemian lifestyle, producing writers,
filmmakers, and even a skateboard champ. And the occasional fire and flood
experienced up the Canyon also impacted those at the mouth of the creek. There
are images of a VW Bus being washed out to sea and an Amerigas truck nearly met
the same fate.
The presentation will be by local historian Eric Dugdale,
former Rodeo Grounds resident and poet Pablo Capra, and you, the audience. Time
will be available during the second half of the program for locals to share
their own stories and recollections of living on Topanga Beach.
Copies of “The Topanga Story” will be available for
purchase, along with “Topanga Beach Experience,” published by Pablo Capra’s
Brass Tacks Press, and a recent anthology, “Bohemia in Southern California,”
that contains a first-person essay by Capra.
Become a Member—Topanga Historical Society membership is
only $20/year for individuals or $30/year for a family.
The program is open to all and free of charge. The potluck
begins at 7 p.m. Bring a main dish, side dish or dessert to share. Coffee and
tea will be provided. The program starts at 8 p.m. The Topanga Community Center
is located at 1440 N. Topanga Canyon Blvd, Topanga, CA 90290.
